Welcome to Month Ten of the St. Louis Modern Quilt Guild 2022 Block of the Month Sampler! You did it! You made it to the final month of this Block of the Month. All that's left is to finish these blocks and put your quilt together!
Remember to post your block to Instagram with the hashtag #stlmqgbom before the November meeting to be entered to win this month's prize. If you don't use Instagram, you may email a photo to the guild email. There will one more monthly prize, but there will also be a drawing for the grand prize for anyone who has a finished Block of the Month quilt top by the January 2023 meeting. STLMQG member Dottie Vaughn has donated longarm quilting service for one finished quilt. Thank you Dottie!
This month, we will be making FOUR 6.5-inch (unfinished) inset circle blocks! I love how this creates a nice, crisp circle without the intersecting seam lines that you get with a Drunkard's path or similar curve technique. There are many tutorials online on how to accomplish this, but as far as I can tell, the technique is most often called the 6-minute circle credited to Dale Fleming. You can see a video of her demonstrating this method here. [note: this definitely takes longer than 6 minutes!] I first learned this technique at one of the very first Sew Me St. Louis retreats so it's fitting that you get to learn this technique the weekend of this year's Sew Me!
SUPPLIES
This block requires a few more items in the way of supplies. If you are at the retreat and brought your BOM fabric so you can finish this quilt, but you don't have these items, come and find me (Em Komiskey) as I will have these things at Sew Me St. Louis. If you plan to complete these inset circle blocks at a later time, come and pick up a piece of freezer paper if you don't already have some! No need to buy a whole box for one project. Here's what you'll need:
INSET CIRCLE TECHNIQUE
Pair your fabric squares, deciding which will be background, and which will be the circles.
Using your circle template (or a compass) trace a circle in the approximate middle of your freezer paper.
Cut out the circle you traced on the freezer paper, then fold the paper in half lengthwise, then in half widthwise to create a crease every 90° around the circle.
Fold your background fabric in half lengthwise, then in half widthwise and press with a hot iron to create creases.
Line up the creases in the paper with the creases of your background fabric. The shiny side of the freezer paper will be face down, and the back/wrong side of your background fabric will be face up. Iron over the freezer paper so it sticks to the fabric.
Cut out a circle from your background fabric that is approximately ¼ - ½ inch smaller than the circle you cut from the freezer paper.
Make notches in the background fabric from the inside of the circle up to nearly the edge of the freezer paper all the way around the circle about every ½ inch.
Press the notches of background fabric back over the freezer paper to open up the circle. Some tutorials suggest using a tiny bit of glue on the paper to hold the notches open. I just sprayed a little bit of water and made sure they were creased well.
Apply glue to the up facing notches of the background fabric. Smooth the circle fabric onto the glue, making sure that all of your background notches stay folded back over the freezer paper. I like to give the block another quick press with the iron to adhere the glue.
Note: at this point, I flipped my block over and realized a couple notches of background fabric didn't get folded all the way back to the edge of the freezer paper circle. I just peeled them apart, pulled the notched back, and then added a little more glue.
Trim the excess circle fabric at about the edge of the notched background fabric. Then remove the freezer paper.
Pull the background fabric back and sew along the crease created by the folded back notches. Go slow, set your needle to stop in the down position if you can, and keep just to the inside edge of your crease. I like to use an open toe appliqué foot so I can see what I'm doing.
Press your block and trim to 6½ inches. Repeat 3 more times!
Welcome to Month Nine of the St. Louis Modern Quilt Guild 2022 Block of the Month Sampler! Only 2 months to go (including this one) until we have all the blocks to finish our quilts! I plan to have the last tutorial posted early, by the time we're at SewMe STL in October. I'll also be at the retreat in person if you need to as me (Em Komiskey) any questions.
Remember to post your block to Instagram with the hashtag #stlmqgbom before the usual October meeting date (no meeting in October) to be entered to win this month's prize. If you don't use Instagram, you may email a photo to the guild email.
This month, we will be making TWO 12.5-inch (unfinished) string blocks! If you've been looking ahead, I originally planned a different block with a similar look, but I didn't like how it was coming out, so I pivoted at the last minute. As a result, the graphic looks slightly different than the block. I'm writing this tutorial with specific widths for the strings, but if you're familiar with this block, you can totally improv it!
CUTTING DIRECTIONS:
These directions are for ONE 12-inch string x-block. We will need 2 for the final layout of the quilt, so you will need to double the number of cut pieces here, though you may want to make each block a different color. As I mentioned in the intro, you can totally improv this block.
If you choose to improv, I suggest choosing a constant background color of the same width and then building your strips out from there. Be sure that each section extends beyond a 6.5 inch square. Each of the 2 blocks will be comprised of four (4) 6.5 inch sub-units.
If you are choosing to make the matched/measured version, here are the measurements I used (reminder: double this for 2 blocks needed):
Background: (4) 2½ x 9½
Color 1: (8) 1½ x 7½
Color 2: (8) 1¼ x 5¾
Color 3: (8) 2½ x 4¼
SEWING DIRECTIONS:
1. You will be making 4 identical 6.5 inch sections for each block. Each of the 4 sections will use one background pieces in the center and 2 of each of the 3 different fabrics, decreasing from longest to shortest out from the background.
Fold each strip in half and either press or finger crease so that you can see the midline.
2. Lining up the pressed or creased midline of each strip, sew the block together using a scant ¼ inch seam allowance. You will sew the longest strip closest to the center of the sub-unit, and the shortest strip to the outside.
3. Trim the sub-unit to 6.5 inches. Line up the center of your block with the center of your ruler and use your pressed/creased lines as guidelines to keep your sub-unit square.
4. Repeat for a total of 4 sub-units. Decided on either an x layout or a diamond layout. Sew the 4 quadrants together.
5. Repeat all steps to create a second block.
You're done! Just one month to go!!
Welcome to Month Eight of the St. Louis Modern Quilt Guild 2022 Block of the Month Sampler! Only 3 months to go (including this one) until we have all the blocks to finish our quilts!
Remember to post your block to Instagram with the hashtag #stlmqgbom before the September meeting to be entered to win this month's prize. If you don't use Instagram, you may email a photo to the guild email.
This month, we will be making TWO 12.5-inch (unfinished) improv CURVE blocks!
Cut 2 squares of fabric, about 15 inches each. Why so much bigger than our unfinished block size of 12.5 inches? The thing to remember when you're sewing in an improvisational or unstructured way is that seam allowances are not included! Thus, we need to add in extra room in our blocks to accommodate the fabric that will be in the seam allowance.
Note: I originally cut my blocks at 14 inches. Reach on to find out why this didn't work out and how I solved the problem!
Stack your squares on top of one another and use a rotary cutter to make one more gentle curves through both layers of fabric.
Gentle curves will be easier to sew than sharper/steeper curves.
Single direction curves will be easier to sew than multi-directional curves. What do I mean by that? Take a look at my middle cut in the image above. From the bottom, the cut begins curving to the right, but then I cut so it turns slightly back to the left.
SEWING DIRECTIONS
Begin by marking the approximate mid-point of each of your curves on both sides of your cut. Mark both pieces of fabric in the SAME PLACE! (See how I've flipped back the top fabric to mark the fabric underneath in the same place?) If your cut is more or less straight before it begins to curve, you will mark the mid point of the curved part of the cut only.
Rearrange your fabric pieces so that your two colors/prints are mixed up.
Flip one piece of fabric so that it is right sides together with the adjacent piece of the same curve. Pin at the place you marked.
I only use one pin to sew these curves. If you like, you can ease the seam together and use 57 pins to keep it together. It's your quilt; do what works for you!
If you're just using one pin, use your hands to ease the two edges even around the curve on one side of the pin until you get to the point where you will start sewing. You match your edges so that you can determine where you will start sewing because the fabric will not be even after it is sewn. There is fabric along the curve that will disappear into the seam allowance.
Carefully sew along the curve, matching your edges as you go.
I will post a video of this on https://www.instagram.com/stlmqg/
Press to one side. I like to press on the back, then flip and press on the front. I like to place the thumb and first finger of my free hand on each side of the seam as a press to make sure the seam along the curve is open all the way as I press.
Repeat with your remaining curves.
Trim to 12.5 inches. If you started with a large enough piece of fabric, you're done! Yay! Way to go!
My finished block was not large enough to trim to 12.5 inches. Oh no! I thought that starting with fabric 1.5 inches larger would leave plenty of room for seam allowance. This would have worked if I would have had fewer curves, or if my curves were less curvy. It's okay, though, because this is improv. So let's fix it.
I'm going to add on one more curve, with this green to bring my block up to size.
Layer the fabric for the next curve under your other piece, leaving enough room to account for the seam allowance. The ruler marks the edge of the fabric underneath because the full curve must be cut through both pieces of fabric.
Using a rotary cutter, cut a gentle curve through both pieces of fabric.
As before, mark the approximate mid-point of the curve on both sides of the cut. Flip the two pieces right sides together, pinning at the mark. Ease around the edge to find the point where you will begin sewing, then carefully sew around the curve.
Hooray! My block is now large enough to trim to 12.5 inches!
My second block was also just a little too small. I used the piece I cut off the first block when I added the green to make my second block a little bit larger.
Two finished improv curve blocks!!
Welcome to Month Seven of the St. Louis Modern Quilt Guild 2022 Block of the Month Sampler!
Remember to post your block to Instagram with the hashtag #stlmqgbom before the August meeting to be entered to win this month's prize. If you don't use Instagram, you may email a photo to the guild email.
This month, we will be making an 18-inch "cut and insert" improvisational block. After the particular technique and seam matching that was required for last month's lone star block, this is a completely different vibe.
This is improv! Do *not* overthink the construction of this block. Relax ... just cut and sew!
Background: 20-inch square**
Several strips of different fabrics, different widths between about 1 inch and 2½ inches, and long enough to stretch across all or part of your background square. The number of strips doesn't really matter and is up to your personal preference. Maybe you only want to use 2, maybe you want 10.
**note: if you are using a scrappy background and don't have a large enough cut to get a 20-inch square (for example: you're using fat quarters), you can construct this block by joining four (4) 9½ inch, unfinished improv squares. You'll use the same sewing directions as below, but repeat for 4 smaller blocks.
Place your first strip across your background square. Using a ruler lined up with the strip, cut a straight line through the background. Flip the strip right sides together with the background and sew. Sew the rest of the background to the other side of the strip.
Place your second strip across your background square. Maybe it crosses your first strip; maybe it goes across your background in a spot that doesn't touch your first strip. Don't overthink it! Just cut and sew!
Continue placing your strips across your background fabric, then cutting and sewing them into your block in a way that pleases you. Maybe you're finishes after 3 or 4 strips. Maybe you're not ...
**Completely optional note about lining up your strips if you want them to have a more continuous look across the background: Okay, so this is really improv-adjacent because you're going to do a little more planning rather than just cut and sew. You can just go ahead and skip this and continue with cut and sew and embrace how the strips end up when you're finished.
No? You're still reading? Really, you can skip this part and just continue to cut and sew.
Fine. You want your strips to line up across the background. If the width of your cut strip is wider than 1-inch, and you cut so that it crosses more than one previous strip, it's impossible for the strips you bisected to line up unless you trim where you cut across the block for your insert. You will trim an amount that is equal to the width of the strip you are inserting minus 1-inch.
For example: If the strip you're inserting is 2¼ inches, you will trim off 1¼ inches from where you cut across the block to insert the strip. Sew the strip onto one side. To line up the other side, flip the remaining background (with your bisected strips) so it's right sides together with your current strip. Line up the raw edges, then fold the background back to where the ¼" seam allowance will be and slide the background along the strip you're inserting until the bisected strips line up.
I hope you skipped this part. It's confusing and it makes this easy block more complicated!
Look! I did all that so I could show you how and my bisected strips still didn't line up exactly. I probably rushed it. Guess what? That's okay! This is improv!!
Trim your block to 18½ inches! You're done!
Welcome to Month Six of the St. Louis Modern Quilt Guild 2022 Block of the Month Sampler!
Remember to post your block to Instagram with the hashtag #stlmqgbom before the 2nd Saturday of July to be entered to win this month's prize. (There is no July meeting because of our quilt show, This Is Modern. See you there!) If you don't use Instagram, you may email a photo to the guild email.
This month, we will be making an 18-inch lone star block. A lone star block uses strip piecing and 45° angle cuts to create multiple rows of diamonds that form the star points. A lone star can have MANY rows of these diamonds, but for this lone star, we will just be using three.
***This block took me 2 hours and 6 minutes to cut and sew, as well as take photos for this tutorial. You may need to add extra time for reading the tutorial, especially if you have never tried a lone star before.***
Fabric1 (inner diamonds of star): (1) 2¼" x 28" strip
Fabric2 (middle diamonds of star): (1) 2¼" x 28" strip
Fabric3 (outer diamonds/points of star): (1) 2¼" x 28" strip
*if you are using fat quarters or don't have fabric length for a 28" strip, you may use more shorter strips.
Background: (4) 5" squares, cut on the diagonal to make 8 triangles
(4) 6½" squares, cut on the diagonal to make 8 triangles
1. Line up one strip of Fabric2 (middle) above the strip of Fabric1 (inner). Off-set to the right by 2". Place right sides together and sew the length of the strip using a ¼" seam allowance.
Line up the strip of Fabric3 (outer) above the other strip of Fabric2 (middle). Off-set to the right by 2". Place right sides together and sew the length of the strip using a ¼" seam allowance.
Iron open towards Fabric2.
2. This step requires a ruler with a 45° angle marking. Line up the 45° angle line along the edge of your strip set. Trim of the excess.
Keeping the 45° angle consistent, cut EIGHT sections at 2¼".
Repeat for your second strip set.
Match each Fabric1-2 set with a corresponding Fabric2-3 set.
**Note: I am not a big pinner. I tend to avoid them as much as possible. However, in this case, I highly recommend pinning your two strip sets together prior to sewing.
a. Place your Fabric1-2 set and your Fabric2-3 set right sides together. Put a pin on the seam line between the two fabrics, ¼" from the edge.
b. Slide the pin through to the bottom set, and again, put the pin through the fabric on the seam line, ¼" from the edge.
c. With the pin through both fabrics as a pivot point, line up the edges of the 2 strip sets, then angle the pin to come up through the fabric and secure the pieces together.
3. Sew the sections of strip sets together. I can't recommend sewing through pins because that sucker could break your needle or the pin could splinter and fly into your eye. That being said, I sewed (VERY slowly) over my pins because you want that line of stitches to cross right over where your pin is inserted. You could also just take the pin out right before you sew that bit.
You will now have eight 4-piece diamonds. These will be the arms of your lone star.
We are making four identical quadrants that will be sewn together into the finished star.
4. Using two of your star arms, lay them out with the background triangles as shown.
5. Take one of the smaller triangles and place it right sides together along its long side with one of the outside angles of the star arm. The point of the background triangle will extend beyond the outside of the star arm at the ¼“ mark. Sew together with ¼“ seam allowance. Iron open. Repeat with the other star arm of that quadrant.
6. Now, use one of your larger triangles, and place right sides together with a star arm along one of its short sides, as shown. Again, the point of the background triangle will extend beyond the star arm at the ¼“ mark. Sew together with ¼“ seam allowance.
Trim off those little “dog ears” extending beyond the seam allowance. Iron open. Repeat with the other star arm of that quadrant.
7. Sew together the two halves of the quadrant along the diagonal line, matching the seam lines as you go. It will be easiest to line up your star if you start sewing from the inner corner of the star. Iron open.
8. Trim to 9½“. To ensure that the star remains the correct size, it’s best to first line up the inside of the star and trim as little as possible, just enough to square up your star quadrant. Then turn the quadrant and complete your trim to 9½“.
Repeat steps 4 - 8 for the remain three quadrants of your lone star. Sew together, again lining up seams and beginning from the inside of the star.
You're done! Great job! Remember to post your finished lone star block to Instagram with the hashtag #stlmqg.
Welcome to Month Five of the St. Louis Modern Quilt Guild 2022 Block of the Month Sampler!
Remember to post your block to Instagram with the hashtag #stlmqgbom before the June meeting to be entered to win this month's prize. If you don't use Instagram, you may email a photo to the guild email.
This month, we will be making THREE different 12-inch star blocks: Missouri star, Ohio star, and Virginia star. These blocks will use some of the skills we have practiced in previous months of this Block of the Month Sampler, including square-in-a-square, quarter square triangles, and flying geese.
I will write these as three separate tutorials below. Because these blocks are a little less straight forward than what we've done so far, I timed myself to give you a reference point for your own planning and making.
Missouri Star took me 1 hour and 6 minutes to cut and sew. This does not include fabric selection time. I'm comfortable with the components of this block (square-in-a-square, HSTs, flying geese), so if you need to review those techniques, you'll need to add more time. Might want to throw in a "seam ripper time allowance" just for funzies, too!
Ohio Star took me 42 minutes to cut and sew. Again, this does not include fabric selection time. If you're not confident with how to construct a quarter square triangle, you'll need to allow extra minutes for review.
Virginia Star took me 43 minutes to cut and sew. This time could actually be less, but I had to break up a kid kerfuffle and didn't stop my watch and I added those diagonal bits to the center that you'll see in my finished photo. I don't include instructions for that part, I just wanted to add a little something to my center since I'm using all solid for this project.
Total time for me to cut and sew these blocks: 2.5 hours. Add more time for fabric selection, to review techniques of block components or to use your seam ripper.
MISSOURI STAR BLOCK
Cutting Directions
Center (square-in-a-square)
Color 1: (1) 4-3/4" square Color 2: (2) 4" squares, each cut on the diagonal to make a total of 4 triangles
Star Points
Background: (1) 7-1/4" square Color 3 (Inner star point): (2) 4-1/4" squares Color 4 (Outer star point): (2) 4-1/4" squares
Corners
Background: (4) 3-1/2" squares
Sewing Directions
A. Begin by making a 6-1/2" square-in-a-square block using the 4-3/4" center square of Color 1 and the (4) triangles made from 4" squares of Color 2. (Hey, we just did this last month!)
To review, center the long edge of a triangle along one edge of the square. Sew using a 1/4" seam allowance. Iron open. Repeat to complete all four sides.
Trim to 6-1/2".
If you need a more detailed review, click back to our April block.
B. Now we will make half square triangles using the (2) 4-1/4" squares of Color 3 and (2) 4-1/4" squares of Color 4. I didn't take a photo of this step.
To review, place one of each fabric right sides together. Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner. Sew a scant 1/4" inch to each side of the line. Cut apart on the line. Iron open. If you need a more detailed review, click back to our January block.
You now have (4) half square triangles made from Color 3 and Color 4.
C. Use those completed HSTs and the 7-1/4" square of background fabric to sew the flying geese that will make the star points. Line up (2) HSTs on opposite corners of the large background square. The color that you want to the inside/bottom of the star point will go to the inside of the large square.
Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner, perpendicular to the center line of the HSTs. Sew a scant 1/4" to each side of the line. Cut apart on the line. Press the HSTs away from the background.
Again, draw a diagonal line corner to corner, perpendicular to the seam line on the HST. Sew a scant 1/4" to each side of the line, cut apart on the line, press open.
You will now have 4 rectangles, each measuring 3-1/2" x 6-1/2 inches. These will be your star points.
Lay out the components of your Missouri Star. Sew together.
Part 1 finished!
OHIO STAR BLOCK
Center
Color 1: (1) 4-1/2" square
Star Points (Quarter Square Triangles)
Background: (1) 5-1/4" square Color 2 (star points): (2) 5-1/4" squares Color 3: (1) 5-1/4" squares
Background: (4) 4-1/2" squares
A. The only specific component of this block are the 4-1/2" quarter square triangles made using the 5-1/4" squares.
Match one square of color 2 with a background square and the other square of color 2 with a square of color 3, right sides together. Make half square triangles.
Use those HSTs to make QSTs. Match one background/color 2 HST with one color 2/color 3 HST. Be sure that the color 2 triangles are on opposite sides and not on top of one another. Draw a diagonal line corner to corner crossing perpendicular to the seam line of the HST. Sew a scant 1/4" to each side of the line. Cut apart on the line and iron open. Trim to 4-1/2" if necessary.
If you need a more detailed review of how to construct a quarter square triangle block, click back to our March blocks.
Lay out the components of your Ohio Star. Sew together.
Part 2 finished!
VIRGINIA STAR BLOCK
(1) 6-1/2" square
Star Points (Flying Geese)
Background: (1) 7-1/4" square Color 1 (star points): (4) 4" squares
A. The only specific component of this block are the 3-1/2" x 6-1/2" flying made using the 7-1/4" background square and (4) 4 inch squares of Color 1.
To make flying geese: line up 2 squares of color 1 in opposite corner of the large background square, right sides together. Draw a diagonal line, corner to corner, going through the diagonal middle of the (2) color 1 square. Sew a scant 1/4" to each side of that line. Cut apart on the line.
Press the triangles of color 1 away from the background. You will now have what looks like two pointy hearts. Place the last 2 squares of color 1 in the remaining corners of the large background square (now cut apart). Draw a diagonal line through middle of the color 1 square, bisecting that heart shape. Sew a scant 1/4" to each side of the line. Cut apart on the line.
Trim to 3-1/2" x 6-1/2".
If you need a more detailed review of how to construct 4-at-a-time flying geese, click back to our February block.
Lay out the components of your Virginia Star. Sew together. (Note: my star center has some diagonal bits that I added for interest but didn't include in this tutorial. You do whatever you want to your center. It's your quilt!)
Welcome to Month Four of the St. Louis Modern Quilt Guild 2022 Block of the Month Sampler!
Remember to post your block to Instagram with the hashtag #stlmqgbom before the May meeting to be entered to win this month's prize. If you don't use Instagram, you may email a photo to the guild email.
(We're not meeting in person in May because of our Zoom program and workshops with Paper, Sax, Sten. Be sure to check your email and this blog next month for the May blocks!)
This month we will be making FIVE 6-inch square-in-a-square blocks, or variations on that block. Easy peasy! You can make five of the same or mix and match as you see fit. In the whole quilt mock-up, you will see them all as small "x blocks" if you want to use that to plan. The whole quilt mock up can be found in the Block of the Month Introduction post.
The square-in-a-square block is a quick and easy block that uses a center square, set on point, and two smaller squares, each cut on the diagonal, and sewn to the center square.
The x-block variation uses a plus as the center block. The economy block variation add an additional layer, so it is essentially a square-in-a-square in another square. Both the square-in-a-square an the economy block are great places to try some fussy cutting if you are using prints in your quilt.
You could certainly do the math to figure out how to make any size square-in-a-square using the Pythagorean Theorem (a² + b² = c²) but I highly recommend skipping all that and using this Square in a Square Calculator from Quilter's Paradise.
When I input the finished size of 6-inches into the calculator, the result is that I will cut my center square at 4¾ and my two corner squares at 3-7/8. I prefer to round up and will cut those corner squares at 4-inches and then trim the finished block.
CUTTING DIRECTIONS
These directions are for a single block. You should decide how many of each variation you want to make and adjust your cutting accordingly.
Square in a square
Inside: (1) 4-3/4 inch square Outside: (2) 4 inch squares, cut on the diagonal
X-block
Inside (x fabric): (1) 2" x 5" rectangle (2) 2-inch squares
Background: (4) 2-inch squares (2) 4 inch squares, cut on the diagonal
Economy block
Inside: (1) 3-1/2" square
Middle: (2) 3 inch squares, cut on the diagonal
Outside: (2) 4 inch squares, cut on the diagonal
1. Line up the long side of each triangle with one side of your center square.
2. Sew together using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
3. Press open. Trim to 6½ inches.
Make the X
1. Sew a 2-inch background square to two opposite sides of a 2-inch square of x fabric.
2. Add the 2" x 5" rectangle to the middle to finish the x.
**this center section will finish at 5". Trim to 4¾ by lining up the center of the x at the 2-3/8 mark on your ruler.**
4. Sew together using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
5. Press open. Trim to 6½ inches.
1. Line up the long side of each small triangle with one side of your center square.
3. Press open. Trim to 4¾ inches.
4. Line up the long side of each larger triangle with one side of your small square-in-a-square.
5. Sew together using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
6. Press open. Trim to 6½ inches.
Choose your block, and make five total, or mix and match!
Welcome to Month Three of the St. Louis Modern Quilt Guild 2022 Block of the Month Sampler!
Remember to post your block to Instagram with the hashtag #stlmqgbom before the April meeting to be entered to win this month's prize. If you don't use Instagram, you may email a photo to the guild email.
This month, you will finish EIGHT blocks! We will make four 9-inch half rectangle triangle blocks (8 total HRTs) and four 6-inch quarter square triangle blocks (QSTs).
Coincidentally, if you are a member of the Modern Quilt Guild (and if you are a member of STLMQG, you are, by extension, also a member of the national organization), there is a full downloadable article about HRTs in your latest issue of MQG Journal, so go check that out if you want to learn more.
If you still haven't had enough, here is a great resource for HRTs from Swim, Bike, Quilt.
Now that you have all the info, let's go ahead and get started with our HRT blocks! We'll continue with the QSTs below. HALF RECTANGLE TRIANGLE BLOCKS
Make 8 HRTs that will finish at 4.5 x 9 inches (5 x 9.5 inches unfinished) for a total of (4) 9-inch blocks (9.5 inches, unfinished).
Since we want our HRTs to finish at 4.5 x 9 inches, we are just going to cut 8 rectangles that are 1.5 inches wider and 2 inches longer than our finished size: 6" x 11".
I used 4 background color blocks and 4 foreground color blocks, but you could mix it up and skip the background here, or use a print as your background instead.
Now, cut half of your rectangles on the diagonal from top left to bottom right. Cut the other half of your rectangles on the diagonal from top right to bottom left.
Side note: You can cut them all in the same direction diagonally, but if you want a diamond or elongated pinwheel in your finished blocks, you must pay attention to the direction of your diagonal cuts.
Match up two halves of a HRT, and line up right sides together along the diagonal cut. There will be a bit of the point that will hang over the edge at the ¼ inch mark.
Sew along the diagonal to connect each pair.
Correct trimming is important in achieving an accurate HRT block!!
We are trimming our HRTs to 5x9.5 inches. I used a dry erase marker to make a dot ¼" in from each corner. When trimming, this is the mark you will use to line up with the diagonal line of you HRT. Your ruler most likely will not line up squarely with the HRT when trimming. It will be slightly askew, but you are using your diagonal as a guideline for trimming.
Now, pair up your individual HRTs and sew them into 9-inch blocks. In the final quilt, you might choose a triangle, diamond, or elongated pinwheel arrangement.
QUARTER SQUARE TRIANGLE BLOCKS
We will make four 6-inch (6.5 inch, unfinished) QSTs.
Cut 4 squares at 7¼".
Start by making half square triangles. If you're new to HSTs and you just jumped in to this Block of the Month, you can head back to the January block for more detailed directions. Line up two squares, right sides together. Draw a diagonal line on the back. Sew a scant ¼" to each side of the drawn line. Cut apart on the line. Iron open.
Now, repeat the process, using two different half square triangles that you just completed.
Place two HSTs right sides together. Be sure to line up the seams on the top and bottom blocks. Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner so that it crosses perpendicular to the seam in the HST.
Again, sew a scant ¼" to each side of the drawn line, cut apart on the drawn line.
Iron open. Trim to 6.5".
Previously posted by Em Komiskey on stlmqg.blogspot.com
Remember to post your block to Instagram with the hashtag #stlmqgbom before the March meeting to be entered to win this month's prize. If you don't use Instagram, you may email a photo to the guild email.
This month, we will be making the second of our two large 24-inch blocks. This block is constructed of four 12-inch sub-units, each made up of three different sizes of flying geese. Because we will need four of each size of "goose", this block lends itself well to using the 4-at-time, no waste method of constructing flying geese. You might put your block together as pictured above, but you can also consider a different arrangement when you put the sub-units together (i.e. geese pointing smallest to largest rather than largest to smallest as pictured), or you can consider a different arrangement of your sub-units in the final block.
Let's get started!
Large Geese:
Color 1: (1) 13 ¼" square
Background: (4) 7" squares
Medium Geese:
Color 2: (1) 9 ¼" square
Background: (4) 5" squares
(8) 2.5" x 4.5" rectangles
Small Geese:
Color 3: (1) 5 ¼" square
Background: (4) 3" squares
These direction will apply for each set of four flying geese.
1. Place two smaller squares in opposite corners of the larger square, right sides together. Draw a diagonal line, corner to corner, through both of the smaller squares.
2. Using a *scant* ¼" seam allowance, sew on each side of the line you drew. (*note*: scant ¼" seam allowance means that you line up your drawn line with the ¼" mark on your machine but scooch it a couple of thread widths distance closer to the needle.)
Cut apart on the line.
3. Press the small squares open (you will have a pointy heart shape). Line up your last two small squares on the bottom of each of the heart shapes, right sides together. As before, draw a diagonal line across the back of the small squares.
4. Sew along each side of your drawn lines, again using a scant ¼" seam allowance. Cut apart on the line.
5. Press open. TRIM large geese to 12½ x 6½, medium geese to 8½ x 4½ and small geese to 4½ x 2½ inches. Sew background rectangles (4½ x 2½) to each side of the small and medium flying geese.
6. Put together a large, medium, and small goose to form one 12½" sub-unit of this block.
7. Decide on the arrangement for your block and sew together sub-units to make a 24½" unfinished block.
8. STLMQG MEMBERS: post your finished block to Instagram using the hashtag #stlmqgbom or email the guild to be entered for a monthly participation prize!
Welcome to Month One of the St. Louis Modern Quilt Guild 2022 Block of the Month Sampler!
Remember to post your block to Instagram with the hashtag #stlmqgbom before the February meeting to be entered to win this month's prize. If you don't use Instagram, you may email a photo to the guild email.
We are starting off with a big, easy 24-inch half square triangle block. Before you begin, consider how you will arrange your half square triangles, as that may affect whether you use a single or multiple fabrics for your half square triangles within your block. In a 4x4 grid, there are 72 possible combinations for symmetric blocks made with half square triangles. You can see them in the following image generated by plover.com.
Cut (8) 7-inch squares from background fabric
Cut (8) 7-inch squares from foreground fabric. Individual color choices will depend on your choice of block design. SEWING DIRECTIONS:
Standard half square triangle construction.
If you are new to half square triangles, check out this video from Melanie Ham for directions on how to make them.
Place one background fabric square and one foreground fabric square right sides together. Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on one side. Sew ¼ inch on each side of your drawn line. Cut the block apart on the diagonal line.
Repeat with your remaining blocks.
Press half square triangles open.
TRIM each of 16 HSTs to 6.5 inches.
Assemble according to your chosen block design.
St. Louis Modern Quilt Guild is a 501(c)3 non-profit organization. 216 Parkland Ave, St. Louis, MO 63122
